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Shop-Made Tools: Making Your Own Special Cutting Tools

Author: Johannes A. Nilsson

What Are Shop-Made Tools?

Shop-made tools are cutting tools, holders, and fixtures you make yourself instead of buying. Sometimes the tool you need doesn't exist. Sometimes it costs $500 and you need it for one job. Sometimes you can make it better than what's for sale. This is about taking raw materials and making the exact tool you need.

Why Make Your Own Tools?

Real Example: You need to cut a 0.437" radius on 50 parts. A form tool costs $300 and takes 3 weeks to deliver. Or you can grind one from a HSS blank in an hour for $5.

That's why we make tools.

Fly Cutters: Your First Shop-Made Tool

A fly cutter is the simplest tool you can make that gives professional results. It's basically a spinning arm with one cutting tool that makes super smooth, flat surfaces.

What Is a Fly Cutter?

Imagine a single-point lathe tool spinning in your mill. That's a fly cutter. It takes a wide, shallow cut and leaves a mirror finish. Way better than face milling with an end mill.

Making a Basic Fly Cutter

What You'll Need

  • 2-3" diameter steel round (1018 works fine)
  • HSS tool bit blank (3/8" or 1/2" square)
  • Set screws
  • Basic lathe and mill

Step-by-Step Process

  1. Make the Body

    • Chuck up your steel round in the lathe
    • Face both ends flat
    • Turn a shank to fit your spindle (R8, MT3, whatever you have)
    • Leave the head 2-3" diameter
  2. Mill the Tool Pocket

    • Put the body in your mill vise
    • Mill a pocket at 45° angle for your tool bit
    • Make it a snug fit - you want maybe 0.001" clearance
    • Pocket should be 1/2 to 2/3 through the body
  3. Add Set Screws

    • Drill and tap for set screws (usually 1/4-20 or 5/16-18)
    • Two screws at 90° to each other
    • This locks your tool bit in place
  4. Balance It (Optional but smart)

    • Drill a hole opposite the tool pocket
    • Removes weight to balance the cutter
    • Reduces vibration at higher speeds

Grinding the Cutting Tool

This is where the magic happens. You're making the actual cutting edge.

Basic Geometry

  • Top rake: 5-10° positive (slopes down from cutting edge)
  • Side clearance: 10-15° (so only the edge touches)
  • Nose radius: 0.015-0.030" (prevents sharp corners that break)

How to Grind

  1. Use a bench grinder with a fine wheel
  2. Keep the tool cool (dip in water frequently)
  3. Grind the angles freehand or with a tool rest
  4. Polish the cutting edge with a stone
  5. The smoother the edge, the better the finish

Using Your Fly Cutter

  • Speed: Run it slow - 100-300 RPM for steel, 300-600 for aluminum
  • Feed: Go easy - it's taking a big bite
  • Depth: 0.001-0.005" for finishing, up to 0.020" for roughing
  • Overlap: 80-90% overlap between passes

Boring Bars: Custom Hole Sizes

A boring bar is a tool for making precise holes to any diameter. Think of it as an adjustable reamer that you make yourself.

What's a Boring Bar?

It's a steel bar with a cutting tool at the end. You stick it in a hole and it cuts the inside to make it bigger and more accurate. Essential when you need a hole size that doesn't match any standard tools.

Simple HSS Boring Bar

Starting Material

  • Steel rod (4140 is good, cold roll works too)
  • Diameter = 50-65% of your smallest hole
  • Length = 4x diameter maximum (longer = more chatter)

Making Process

  1. Prepare the Shank

    • Turn to fit your boring head or tool holder
    • Or leave round for collet holding
    • Make it concentric - runout here means runout in your hole
  2. Grind the Cutting End

    Side view:       Top view:
    
       |\              _____
       | \            |     |____
       |  \           |_____|
       |___\
    
    Relief angle     Clearance prevents rubbing
    

Key Angles

  • Front clearance: 10-15°
  • Side clearance: 5-10°
  • Side rake: 5-10° positive
  • Keep the point sharp!

When to Make vs Buy

Make Your Own

  • Odd sizes (like 0.7835" for that weird bearing)
  • Long reach applications
  • Special profiles (like back boring)
  • Learning experience

Buy Commercial

  • Standard sizes you'll use often
  • Carbide insert bars for production
  • When rigidity is critical
  • Coolant-through designs

Form Tools: Making Complex Shapes

Form tools cut specific profiles in one pass. Need a special radius? Odd angle? Custom groove? Make a form tool.

Understanding Form Tools

Instead of moving the tool to create a shape, the tool IS the shape. One plunge cut or pass creates the entire profile.

Making a Simple Radius Tool

Let's say you need a 1/4" radius on the edge of parts.

Process

  1. Start with HSS Blank

    • 3/8" x 3/8" x 3" HSS tool bit
    • Or larger depending on your radius
  2. Grind the Inverse Profile

    • Your tool needs a 1/4" CONCAVE to cut a 1/4" CONVEX
    • Use radius gauge to check
    • Or make a template from shim stock
  3. Add Relief Angles

    • Front relief: 5-7°
    • Side relief: 2-3° each side
    • Too much relief = weak tool
    • Too little = rubbing and heat
  4. Test and Adjust

    • Try on scrap material
    • Check with radius gauges
    • Adjust until perfect
    • Stone the cutting edge smooth

Form Tool Tips

  • Go slow: Form tools take big bites
  • Use cutting oil: Lots of it
  • Light cuts: 0.002-0.010" per pass
  • Sharp tools: Resharpen frequently
  • Rigid setup: Any flex ruins the profile

Special Holders and Arbors

Sometimes the challenge isn't the cutting tool - it's holding the work. Custom arbors and holders solve weird work-holding problems.

Between Centers Turning Arbor

For turning work that's already bored.

Arbor Description

  • Steel shaft with 60° centers on both ends
  • Work slides onto shaft
  • Dog drives the work
  • Perfect concentricity

Making One

  1. Turn between centers (yes, to make a between centers arbor)
  2. Get diameter 0.0005" under your bore size
  3. Polish to size
  4. Cut flat for drive dog
  5. Harden if needed

Expanding Arbor

Holds work from the inside of a bore.

Design

   Slots cut lengthwise
   |  |  |
   v  v  v
  [========]----
   ^ Taper ^

Draw bolt pulls tapered plug
expanding the slotted section

Making Tips

  • 3-4 slots evenly spaced
  • 1° taper over working length
  • Don't over-expand (they can crack)
  • Size for 0.005-0.010" expansion range

Tool Materials Explained

High Speed Steel (HSS)

What HSS Is

Tool steel that stays hard when hot

Why Use HSS

  • Cheap and available
  • Can grind to any shape
  • Resharpenable forever
  • Good for learning

HSS Best For

Lathe tools, boring bars, form tools

Carbide

What Carbide Is

Tungsten carbide - way harder than HSS

Types

  • Brazed carbide: Carbide tip silver-soldered to steel body
  • Insert tooling: Replaceable carbide inserts in steel holders

Why Use Carbide

  • Stays sharp longer
  • Cuts faster
  • Handles interrupted cuts
  • Better finish

Carbide Best For

Production tools, hard materials

Heat Treatment Guidelines

O1 Tool Steel (easiest DIY):

  1. Heat to bright cherry red (802°C)
  2. Quench in oil (motor oil works)
  3. Clean and polish
  4. Temper in oven at 204°C for 1 hour
  5. Should be straw yellow color

When to Send Out for Heat Treatment

  • Complex shapes (less warping)
  • Critical tools
  • Air-hardening steels
  • When you need consistent results

Safety First

Testing New Tools

Always

  1. Start at 1/4 normal speed
  2. Take a 0.001" test cut
  3. Stand to the side
  4. Wear face shield AND safety glasses
  5. Have someone else there if possible

What Can Go Wrong

  • Tool breaks: Sharp pieces fly
  • Tool grabs: Work gets yanked
  • Tool bends: Ruins work and maybe crashes
  • Bad heat treat: Tool goes soft mid-cut

Prevention

  • Calculate cutting forces
  • Always test on scrap first
  • Start conservative
  • Keep documentation
  • Learn from failures, the best way to learn

Your First Projects

Project 1: Simple Fly Cutter

  • 2 hour project
  • Immediate results
  • Under $20 in materials
  • Use it forever

Project 2: 60° Threading Tool

  • Grind from HSS blank
  • Practice tool geometry
  • Save $50 vs buying
  • Great for learning

Project 3: Boring Bar Set

  • Make 3 sizes
  • Learn different geometries
  • Solve real problems
  • Build up your confidence in your capability

Economics of Tool Making

Example: Radius Form Tool

Buy It

  • $300+ custom ground
  • 2-3 week delivery
  • Single radius only

Make It

  • $5 HSS blank
  • 2 hours labor
  • Any radius you want
  • Ready today

Break Even

One job

Hidden Benefits

  • No waiting for delivery
  • Exact size you need
  • Learn valuable skills
  • Solve problems in-house
  • Impress the Boss with your demonstrated capability

Record Keeping

Document Each Tool

Keep a document with:

  • Sketch or CAD of the tool
  • What it's for
  • Material used
  • Grinding angles
  • Speed/feed that worked
  • Problems encountered

Why

You or your protégé will need to make another someday

Getting Started

Basic Tool List

To start making tools you need:

  • Bench grinder (6" is fine)
  • HSS tool blanks
  • Dial caliper
  • Protractor or angle gauge
  • Safety equipment
  • Most of all, Patience and Perseverance

First Purchase

HSS Blank Set

About $30 gets you:

  • Various sizes of square blanks
  • Ready to grind
  • Make dozens of tools
  • Learn without breaking the bank

Final Advice

Making your own tools is a journey into the world of Machining. Your first fly cutter will probably look butt-ugly but if it cuts, it's good. Your tenth will be a work of art.

Start simple. Make tools that solve real problems in your shop. Every tool you make teaches you something - about working out geometry, about materials and their behavior, about problem solving.

And there's no feeling quite like using a tool you designed and made to solve a problem that had you stumped. That's not just machining - that's actually engineering, craftsmanship, and creativity rolled into one. You will be a hacker of physical space and time.

Remember: The best tool is the one that gets the job done safely. Pretty comes with practice, but pretty isn't necessary when you are starting out.